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December 26, 2007


leather is a natural material—no two hides are identical; each accepts dye somewhat differently, resulting in shading differences. Other characteristics may include healed scars from sources such as barbed wire fencing, insect bites, stretch marks, fat and neck wrinkles, as well as other impressions. Therefore, variations with each hide are expected and therefore there may be differences in the colour and texture of two leather upholstered furniture.
It is to be remembered that as leather is a natural product and, thus, breathes and can dry out or fade in the heat or sun. It is important with protected leathers to restore the moisture at least twice a year with a leather conditioner. It is further recommended that leather pieces are not left in direct sunlight, as this may cause them to fade. If our leather piece is in a high sun or heat area, it is recommended to use a leather conditioner more often

If it does have protection, we can just wipe up spills with a dry cloth. We can also use our Leather Cleaner on a tougher spot that is included while purchasing the Leather Care Warranty.

If it doesn't have protection spills there are some solutions available from the leather merchants, that becomes a part of our furniture. Hair and body oils are resisted by these solutions and they work their best to prevent their way into the leather. All of this really adds to the well-worn beauty of an old baseball glove or a favorite bomber jacket. All of this adds to the beauty, charm and uniqueness of unprotected, naked leathers.

How to remove stains from different types of leathers:

Pure Aniline Leathers
All pure aniline leathers have Scotchguard/GTX incorporated into the dyeing process. All spills should be cleaned ASAP to prevent stains from setting.

• Water Based Stains: The area is to be blotted with a colorfast cloth. If necessary, to be blotted or gently wiped with a colorfast cloth dampened with bottled water. Before the area dries, a mixture of two (2) tablespoons of white vinegar and one (1) quart of bottled water is to be misted. This will prevent or get out any water rings. The area is allowed to air dry. Never dried with heat as this will set the stain and/or dry out the leather. The process is repeated as needed as stubborn stains may not come out on the first attempt.

• Oil Based Stains: The area is first cleaned and blotted with a colorfast cloth. Baking soda is sprinkled on the area - enough to thoroughly cover the area. It is left on the stain until the baking soda turns a greyish color. Brushed or vacuum off. The process is repeated until baking soda no longer turns grey, then the area is cleaned with a colorfast cloth, bottled water, and vinegar mixture as in water based procedure. The area is allowed to air dry.

• Fading From Cleaning: A light spot from cleaning may occur. It is left for a few days and the color will most likely return. If not, a couple of drops of baby or mink oil is applied to CLEAN hands and rub into hands as we use lotion. Then lightly massage the area that has faded. This will put moisture back into the leather that was lost during cleaning.

• Sunfading: THIS IS RECOMMENDED FOR DARK LEATHER COLORS ONLY. If the piece has faded over a large area, a clean sponge is taken and is dampened with bottled water. Apply a few drops of baby or mink oil and massage into the sponge. Lightly rub sponge over the faded area. Go in one direction - up and off. ONLY DO THIS ON BACKS AND SIDES, NOT ANYWHERE WHERE WE WILL SIT as oil could transfer to our clothing. Go with a small amount of oil at first and increase the amount if needed. Always test this method first in an unobvious area to convince ourself of the results.

• Ink Stains: FOR BALLPOINT AND FELT TIP PENS ONLY. Our fingertip is to be used covered by a clean, colorfast cloth. It should be rubbed up and off in one motion. It should NOT BE RUBBED INTO THE LEATHER. Cloth area is changed with each motion. If all else fails, area is lightly rubbed with gum eraser (used on suede shoes and can be purchased in most shoe stores).

Protected Aniline Leathers
With protected aniline leathers, we can expect color consistency, easy maintenance, and more protection against sunfading (however, leather can still fade if proper care is not taken). These leathers have a pigmented finish and will not be as soft as other leathers, but require minimal care. Simply dust occasionally with a clean, colorfast cloth.

• Water and Oil Based Stains: Water and oil based spills should wipe off easily. Always to use a clean, colorfast cloth and lightly wipe the spill area. For water based spills that could potentially stain, to use bottled water on cloth. If oil based stains leave a darkened area, we can use the baking soda technique explained above; however, oil will most likely dissipate with time and use.

• Ink Stains: To use the same technique as with pure aniline leathers.

Nubuck Leathers
Nubucks are top grain leathers that are buffed to create a sueded effect. They do require more maintenance than pure aniline leathers because they are more porous, but they are just as durable as any top grain leather. Nubucks are generally finished with a wax or Scotchguard protectant.

• Water Based Stains: Any water based spill should bead on top of the leather unless it is pressed in. Remove spill ASAP with a clean, colorfast cloth. IT SHOULD NEVER PRESSED IN. The spill should be pressed from the side and lift it up. The spill should absorb into the cloth. If the spill is pressed into the leather, or has caused a stain, to nuse the same treatment as for pure aniline water based spills.

• Oil Based Stains: We have to use the same treatment as for pure aniline oil based stains. As nubucks are more porous, the stain may be harder to get out.

• Ink Stains: We have to use the same technique as for pure aniline ink stains. The only difference is if all else fails, we have to gently rub the area with a Revlon Emory board. Rub up and off in one motion. Gum eraser should never be used on nubucks.

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